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Re-roofing a villa or bungalowGet the details right and it still looks original.

Villa roofs are usually gabled or hipped and clad in corrugated iron, so new corrugate is normally the natural fit. The skill is in the details: the verandah curve, the spouting profile, the flashings and the chimney. Check whether your street has character or heritage rules before you choose anything.

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Updated 28 October 2026 · Written by the Find My Roofer team · How we check our facts

What's usually up there?

Auckland's special character statements describe villa roofs as gabled and hipped, most commonly in corrugated iron, with brick chimneys a feature of many rooflines. Californian bungalows tend to have shallow gable roofs and wide eaves with exposed rafters. After a century of add-ons, expect more than one material, especially on lean-tos.

Lean-tos and add-ons can hide asbestos

WorkSafe says additions and refurbishments made before 2000 may contain asbestos, whatever the age of the main house. Get any cement-sheet porch or lean-to tested before it's cut or lifted, and keep everyone off it: WorkSafe lists fibrolite among brittle roofs not to be walked on.

Matching what the street sees

Start with the profile. Standard corrugate is the usual match, and Roofing Industries makes True Oak, a deeper, rounder corrugate it describes as a return to the original. Curved verandah roofs can be rolled to suit: Metalcraft, for one, offers bullnose, drape and spring curving.

Then the spouting, the detail people forget. Roofing Industries makes an Old Gothic profile it likens to colonial spouting, and Metalcraft a Colonial Quad. Before strip-off, have the barges, ridge and finials photographed so the new ones copy the old shapes.

Shallow bungalow roofs and verandahs

Low pitches are where these re-roofs come unstuck. Roofing Industries puts standard corrugate at a minimum of 8 degrees under E2/AS1, or 10 with end-lapped sheets, and NZMRM's installation guide says corrugate can't finish at the spouting below 8 degrees. Flatter planes may need a deeper corrugate or a rib profile, so ask for every plane to be measured, verandah included.

Old metals that don't mix with new steel

If the chimney or vents are flashed in lead, or there's copper on the house, raise it early. NZ Steel says neither is compatible with ZINCALUME or COLORSTEEL, especially where water runs off onto the coated steel, so new flashings should be soft zinc, aluminium or matching coated steel.

Unpainted iron suits some villas, but NZ Steel doesn't recommend ZINCALUME in its Severe, Very Severe or Extremely Severe categories near the coast, where its range points to COLORSTEEL. And deep verandahs need washing: the Code of Practice says overhangs and soffits that rain rarely reaches collect salt and corrode faster.

In Auckland's Special Character Areas, restoration and repair is permitted but external alterations need resource consent, and Plan Change 120 may change that. The Historic Heritage Overlay asks for the same or closest materials, with no water-blasting or scaffolding fixed to the building. Wellington, Christchurch and Hamilton have their own character rules.

For building consent, iron for iron on the same purlins is the easy case: New Plymouth District Council gives same-type roofing on a roof over 15 years old as typical consent-free work. New purlins, a heavier roof or an early failure can change that, so ask your council.

Decide about the chimney now

With the scaffold up, a re-roof is the natural time. The Natural Hazards Commission says homes built before 1970 most likely have unreinforced chimneys, and its safest option is removal down to floor level, or a light metal flue above the roof if you still use the fire. Removal may need consent. See chimney removal.

What to ask a roofer about your villa

  • Which corrugate matches mine, and does it suit every plane's pitch?
  • Can you curve sheets to match the verandah?
  • What will replace any lead flashings?
  • Which spouting profile will you use?
  • Has the lean-to been tested for asbestos?

Your part, and the roofer's

You can

  • Ask the council whether your address has character or heritage rules
  • Photograph the spouting, barges and finials from the ground
  • Make the chimney decision before quotes come in
  • Compare real colour samples against the weatherboards in daylight

Leave to a roofer

  • Measuring each roof plane
  • Curving sheets and remaking flashings
  • Asbestos testing and licensed removal
  • Scaffolding, freestanding if heritage rules need it

How we'd treat a villa roof

We'd match the profile, verandah curve and spouting to what the street sees, and quietly replace the metals that don't get on with new steel, starting with any lead flashings. We'd settle the chimney and the character-area question before asking for quotes, so every roofer is quoting the same job.

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Tell us the job and your postcode. We match it with a Find My Roofer certified roofer who specialises in that kind of work, and they call you to quote. Your number goes to them alone.

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Questions

Straight answers.

Should a villa go back to tiles?
Usually not. MBIE's guidance says going from corrugated iron to concrete tiles needs consent, because the heavier roof loads the framing. If yours already has tiles, iron is the lighter option.
Can I just paint the old iron?
If it's sound with surface rust only, a repaint can buy years. Once rust comes through at the laps and nail holes, see repaint or re-roof?
Is a bungalow roof any different?
Often it's the same corrugate, but a shallow bungalow roof leaves less room on pitch, so the profile choice matters more.

Ready for a roofer to look at it?

Your postcode and three quick questions. We match you with a local roofer who specialises in re-roofing villas, and tell you straight away if we don't have one near you.

Where this information comes from

Every fact and rule on this page comes from the sources above, checked on the dates shown. How we write and check these pages.

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